Random note related to my Visual Studies class.
On page 112 (Chapter 3, "Modernity: Spectatorship, Power and Knowledge") of Practices of Looking, Cartwright & Sturken discuss a GUESS ad from the 1990s [Figure 3.10]. This one:
[download PDF file:Download Guess]
They write:
"In this Guess fashion ad, the implied locale of a rice paddy and the use of an Asian model give ordinary women's clothing a peasant quality. Here the hats worn typically by workers in rice paddies in order to shield their faces from the sun are recorded as signifiers of exoticism. We are not intended to think that these women are actually performing the labor of working in the rice paddies; rather, the paddy offers an exotic location in which highly paid models and expensive clothing can be put on display" (112)
Although the interpretation seems to make sense, it actually misses the point by a mile. In fact, the authors did not realize that the advertisers were actually referencing a classic Italian film from the Neorealism era, Riso Amaro (Bitter Rice, 1949) directed by Giuseppe De Santis. The ad emulates and replicates the poses and attire of the actresses, Silvana Mangano in primis. The setting is the Po Valley, not China.
Here's a short, but poignant review of Riso Amaro:
"This tale of city women who come to work in the rice fields of the Po Valley, is remembered mostly for the voluptuous Mangano in thigh-revealing shorts and torn nylons, her seductive head held high, standing in a rice paddy. The huge success of the steamy film and the 19-year-old actress, who married producer De Laurentiis the same year, paved the way for other Italian sexpots to join the international scene. Ostensibly a neo-realist exposé of the exploitation of women workers, the film, in reality, only exposes Mangano and exploits the subject." (Film 4)
Cartwright & Sturken's analysis is what Italian semitoician Umberto Eco would call "an aberrant interpretation" (or "aberrant decoding", "aberrant reading"). In the 1960s, Umberto Eco used the term 'aberrant decoding' to refer to a text which has been decoded by means of a different code from that used to encode it. You can find additionally information about the notion of 'aberrant reading" here. (I recommend this book as well)
Incidentally, in an endless game of floating signifiers and intertextuality on steroids, famed photographer Douglas Kirkland has recently paid homage to Riso Amaro and Italian classic cinema by replacing the original models with contemporary actresses and actors.
You can see the result on his website. Here's an example:
Actress Luisa Ranieri poses as Silvana Mangano in Kirkland's homage:
Disclaimer: This is not intended as a criticism of "Practices of Looking". It is one of the best resources available on the market to understand Visual Culture. My point is that there are so many layers of meaning in the images that we consume on a daily basis and, in a postmodern age, intertextuality has become the standard way of encoding. Thus, the process of decoding should not be taken lightly.
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